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Item ID: FS-112
Make: Chevrolet
Weight: 2.2600lbs.

This is a new reproduction set of king pins and bushings for 1928-1939 Chevrolet, Pontiac & GMC cars & trucks. This is a complete set for both sides. King pin dimensions are: .732" x 5.18". NOTE: This set requires press fit on the bushings and reaming to fit the shafts. Replaces GM# 602691

Specific Applications:
1928-1930 Chevrolet cars, Chevy & GMC trucks;
1928-1936 Pontiac - 6-cylinder models with straight axle - compare king pin dimensions
1931-1933 Chevrolet cars (except 1933 Standard CC), Chevy & GMC 1/2 ton trucks;
1934-1936 Chevy & GMC 1/2 ton trucks;
1937-1939 Chevy & GMC 1/2, 3/4 & 1 ton trucks

This part fits most 1928 1929 1930 1931 1932 1933 1934 1935 1936 1937 1938 1939 Chevrolet Cars and Trucks.; exceptions may apply. Please read the complete description to see if this part fits your specific vehicle and application.


This product can expose you to a chemical, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer or reproductive harm.
For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov


FS-112
USD 69.50 SET
USD $69.50 SET

FS-112 KING PIN REPLACEMENT King pins on early Chevrolet cars and trucks require pressing bushings into the spindle and using a reamer to fit the pin to the bushings. Jack up the front of the vehicle and place it on good quality, four point jack stands. Remove hubcaps, wheels and tires. Remove the hub dust cover, cotter pin and spindle nut. Pull the hub & brake drum off while keeping the outer bearing from falling out of the hub. This is a good time to inspect the condition of the wheel bearings and repack them with fresh grease. Check closely for pitting in the balls or races. With the hub removed, slide the inner bearing dust shield and inner race off of the spindle. This will expose the brake backing plate. This plate must be removed but anything connecting the backing plate to the chassis must be removed first. This would include brake housings and cables on mechanical brake systems or brake hoses on hydraulic systems. When removing hydraulic brake hoses press a rubber plug into the opening on the wheel cylinder. Also cover the end of the brake hose with a plastic bag and seal with a rubber band. These steps will prevent contamination. There will be four main mounting bolts that hold the backing plate to the spindle. Remove these, taking note that some applications will have two different size and/or different length bolts. With the bolts removed, the backing plate will slide off of the axle, exposing the spindle, axle and king pin. Check the brake shoes for wear and wheel cylinders for leakage. Replace if necessary. Clean the backing plate and set aside for installation later. Remove the dust cap (soft plug) on top of the spindle by striking it with a chisel on the edge. Once the dust cap is removed, unbolt and remove the tapered lock pin that is bolted horizontally into the axle housing. With this pin removed, drive the king pin down and out of the axle and spindle. The spindle is now free of the axle. Remove and discard the bearing but retain any undamaged shims for possible use later. Note the location of the bearings & shims as they are disassembled. Clean the axle and spindle of dirt and grease. With the spindle cleaned, inspect the bearing surfaces for signs of damage. The damage will be on the bottom edge of the spindle surface which is holding the weight of the vehicle. If a bearing race has spun, it can damage the spindle causing loose bearing fit and also causing misalignment. This in turn can cause irregular wear on tires or steering “wander”. If your spindles have this kind of damage, you can try to find suitable replacements. Another option would be to have the spindle industrial chromed and turned back to standard. Industrial chroming is a very hard surface that can be used to save an otherwise difficult to find part. Open the new king pin set and check the components. There should be two king pins, four bushings, two bearings, shim packet, two lock pins with lock washers & nuts. Some installations require other special parts, but this list should be the minimum in the kit. If you buy a kit at a swap meet or online, be sure that you are getting a complete kit. The bushings must be removed by driving them out of the spindle. This is best done in a vise with a bushing driver. Drive out the old bushings and drive in the new. CAUTION: When driving in the new bushings, pay special attention to see if there is a grease hole in the bushings. If so, this hole must line up with the grease fittings in the spindle to allow proper grease flow to the bushings. With the new bushings in place, they must now be reamed. A proper king pin reamer must be used to keep the alignment straight and get the right fit of the spindle to the pin. The reamer size should be .005” larger than the king pin diameter. Once the pin fit has been checked, clean any foreign material from the bushings and lubricate the bushings with wheel bearing grease. Pack grease into the new bearings provided in the king pin kit. Check the fit of the new king pin in the end of the axle. The new king pin should fit snugly in the end of the axle. If there is too much play in the end of the axle, it would be best to find another axle. Though oversize king pin sets were available many years ago, these are somewhat hard to find. Even if found, the boring of the old axle must be made at precisely the correct angle and bore size. This process would have to be done at a qualified machine shop. Replacing a worn out axle will probably be easier and cheaper. Install the spindle with the bearing at the bottom. Use new shims in the king pin set to adjust for any slack between the bearing, axle and the spindle. If there are not enough shims provided, clean and use some of the original shims that were saved on disassembly. There should be no looseness between the bearing, axle and spindle but the spindle should turn freely on the axle. NOTE: Shims may not be necessary at all if there is a tight fit. Slide the new king pin into the top of the spindle bore, taking note of the flat spot on the side of the pin. The flat area on the king pin must align with the hole for the horizontally installed tapered locking pin. Push the king pin down until the hole for the locking pin is open. Install the tapered locking pin into the horizontal hole. Install lock washer and nut and tighten down until the pin is seated securely in the axle. On early models, there is also a wheel stop that is held in place by this pin. Be sure to install the stops when installing the lock pins. Install the dust caps (soft plugs) in the top and bottom of each king pin. Hit the rounded surface with a couple of good blows to lock the plug in place. Pump a little grease into the fittings to insure good lubrication of the bushings and pins. Check for free spindle operation from front to back. If everything is installed properly, there should be no up & down movement in the spindle and the front to back movement should be smooth. If your installation passes these checks, continue to install the backing plates, dust seals, hubs & drums, wheels & tires in reverse order explained above.

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